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					Health and BehaviourOften, people think that getting a cat begins and ends with 
					selecting a kitten and bringing it home.  The fact is, this 
					attitude couldn’t be further from the truth !  A kitten is a 
					baby, and like all babies, you have to teach and set limits 
					if you want an adult cat that is socialized and well 
					behaved.  One of the biggest reasons that adult cats are 
					surrendered to shelters is because of behavioural problems 
					that make it too difficult to share your home with your 
					cat.  
					 
					Kittens learn 
					best by copying their parents.  Here two Ragdoll females ( 
					Lily feeding and Hope in the bottom right of the photo)
					 
					between them 
					ensure that the kittens are clean and fed.  Kittens start 
					copying their parents as young as three weeks of age.   
					If you want a well behaved cat, start 
					right – be selective when choosing your kitten. Most 
					pedigree cats are not made available to their purr-ever 
					families until they are 10 – 12 weeks of age. This is 
					because reputable breeders want their kittens to have a much 
					opportunity as possible to learn their socialization skills 
					from Mum.  
					This does not mean 
					that if your non-pedigree kitten is 6 – 8 weeks of age that 
					they can’t be taught adequate behaviour, it simply means 
					that you as the owner must act as a substitute parent. 
					 
					
					Photo of Phantom, one of a 
					dumped litter 
					
					 of four I hand raised 
					from a few days old.   
					Sometimes you must be 
					parent to a kitten in more ways than one.  Breeding involves 
					risks, one of which is that the mother can die during birth 
					or be too ill to care for the kittens.  If that happens, 
					round the clock care and bottle feeding is the only way to 
					save the kittens.  Do you want to risk the life of your cat 
					with a litter of kittens that may kill her ? 
					
					Behaviour tips : 
					 ·        
					Your 
					kitten is a baby – and like all babies, needs to be taught 
					limits.  Try these tricks : 
					 ·        
					To stop 
					your kitten biting, blow sharply into their mouth.  This 
					causes a reflex swallow action and they let go.  They don’t 
					like the feel either, and soon stop. 
					 ·        
					Get 
					yourself a water pistol.  Snacking and yelling only make the 
					cat scared of you.  If you see kitty doing something wrong, 
					squirt them with a water pistol.  They will not associate 
					the unpleasant squirt with you, just the behaviour. 
					 ·        
					Don’t 
					reward bad behaviour.  If your cat consistently jumps on the 
					meal table begging for food and you feed them, then they 
					associate the jumping behaviour with being fed.  Instead, 
					say “NO” firmly, and lift them down.  If they persist, put 
					them in another area and shut the door.  This way, they 
					associate the bad behaviour with missing out on all the 
					action. 
					 ·        
					Cats 
					need to scratch, to help control claw growth.  If you don’t 
					give them a suitable, stable post, they’ll make their own – 
					usually on your good furniture.  Get a good scratch post and 
					they’ll leave the rest of your things alone.  In Australia 
					declawing is illegal, as well it should be around the 
					world.  We prohibit declawing in our contract and will not 
					place kittens otherwise.  It is not necessary, it is a 
					barbaric amputation of your cats toes.  Cats that are 
					declawed can't defend themselves, become withdrawn as a 
					result of the mutilation and many develop behaviour problems 
					- such as not using litter trays because it's now too 
					painful to dig in the litter.  If you can't deal with the 
					fact that cats have claws, then don't have one.  Mutilation 
					is not the answer. 
					 ·        
					If Puss 
					gets up too early in the morning, you may need to adjust 
					their sleeping routine.  When you see Puss dosing off early 
					in the evening gently wake them and play with them.  An 
					hours additional wake-up time means an extra hour they will 
					sleep the next morning.  I’ve found it works quite well, and 
					they soon adjust to the new sleep pattern. 
					 Health 
					: 
					 ·        
					We 
					vaccinate our cats.  In Australia, vaccines are placed 
					through a rigorous testing procedure to gain approval and we 
					are confident that they are safe to use based on the current 
					scientific literature.  We use killed (inactivated) products 
					only, as the Ragdoll breed is known to be sensitive to live 
					(activated) and modified-live vaccines.  We remain at the 
					vet for some time after vaccinations in case anti-histamines 
					are needed to control an adverse reaction.  This has 
					happened once or twice since we started breeding, and the 
					cats in question are now a healthy happy neuters and speys.  
					They now receive antihistamines as a routine part of their 
					vaccination protocol. 
					 ·        
					Some 
					kittens develop a small pea-sized lump at the site under the 
					skin where they were immunised.  This lump will subside in 
					about a week, and does not cause any discomfort to the cat.  
					Some cats get it, some don’t – it depends entirely on the 
					individual. 
					 ·        
					
					Ragdolls are sensitive to anesthetics.   Isoflurane (gas) is 
					suitable agent  for all speying and neutering procedures.  
					Anecdotal evidence suggests that Ketamine and Domidor are 
					not suitable for Ragdolls.  Make sure you talk to your vet 
					about what drugs will be used. In many cases if they are not 
					familiar with the idiosyncracies of the breed, you will know 
					more than they do.  You need to work out between you the 
					best approach for your cat. 
					 ·        
					
					Ragdolls are in general a robust, healthy breed with a life 
					span of 12 to 15 years.  As with any other animal, 
					spontaneous health problems may occur in individual cats or 
					if the breeding program is not geneticially diverse, but we 
					have not experienced this with our program.  We screen our 
					cats, scrutinise pedigrees and calculate in-breeding co-efficients 
					prior to each mating to ensure that as far as we are able to 
					control it,  problems will not arise.   
					 ·        
					Kittens 
					lose their baby teeth at around about 15 to 20 weeks of 
					age.  Some kittens breeze through this, some don’t.  ALL 
					however, will want something to chew on.  If you don’t want 
					this to be the electrical cord for your TV, provide an 
					alternative.  The cardboard tube out of a toilet roll is 
					good, so is a tightly rolled up piece of paper.  You may 
					find teeth on the floor, or your kitten may seem to be 
					drooling a little.  This is normal.  If your kitten seems to 
					be off their food for more than a day or appears to have a 
					temperature or be lethargic, however, a trip to the vet just 
					to check may be in order. 
					 ·        
					
					Sometimes Puss may wake up with one eye seemingly glued 
					shut.  Don’t panic – they probably have sleep in their eyes 
					that’s caught the eyelid hairs.  Just wipe the eye with a 
					damp cotton bud and loosen the material, and you’ll have two 
					baby blues looking back at you.  If the eye looks red or 
					swollen, or Puss isn’t opening it fully, check there is no 
					hair in the eye.  If you can’t see any irritant, or the 
					problem persists, a trip to the vet is in order.   |